Finding France

Wine Cellar International Tasting

At this point I shall veer from my mostly South African foray into The Drinking of The Wine and venture back into the annals of the history of this wonderful tradition by visiting The Wines (not the actual place, alas) of the origin of the practise of The Making of The Wine. The Wines on sample have been grouped by region rather than my normal insightful differentiation between The White & The Red.

CHAMPAGNE:

• Drappier Carte D’ Or (N/V): 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Fresh, light acid, crispy, sharp Appletizer, cidery, chest tickles.

ALSACE:

• Trimbach (2010): Riesling. Current vintage. Petrol, Vaseline, yellow flowers dipped in petrol, oil bubble oil, fresh, oily sharpness, lemon Vaseline. Made for aging.

BURGUNDY:

• Joseph Drouhin Cote De Bearome Village (2011):  10% new oak. Pinot Noir. Cinnamon chocolate, Christmas pudding chocolate mousse, pot pourri powder, light like cold rooibos, puff of fresh flower powder, raw meat.  (**)

LANGUEDOC:

• Chapoutier Les Vignes De Bila Haut Rouge (2012): Grenache Noir, Grenache & Cinsault. Purple berry juice, blueberry flavouring, violet blueberry muffins, shot silk, powdery grip, drinking chocolate powder. (**)

COTES-DU-RHONE:

• Chapoutier Cotes Du Rhone Belleruche Rouge (2012): Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault. Nutmeg choc muffins, ground ginger on rare meat, gamey, soft & thick, like drinking blood, fine black pepper. 100 points on Robert Parker.

BORDEAUX:

• Clinet Ronan (2010): Spiced lamb shoulder, floral cumin, velvety, slightly medicinal, flat, cough mix powder, empty.

Facts about The French:

• By law, any NV Champagne must be 12 months on lees & aged for 13 months
• A vintage Champagne must be on the lees for 3 years
• Alsace may label their varietals
• Appellation system – regions legally designated to varietals & methods.
• Most Champagne houses state date of degorgement on bottles.

Getting Integrated with Coronata

Nitida Coronata Vertical Tasting

It is always a treat to discover the evolution of wines – and a vertical tasting of Nitida’s Coronata was no exception. Not being a very avid fan of the Durbanville region traditionally and also not traditionally being a lover of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon as varietals in general, I approached the day with reserved enthusiasm. By the end, however, a new favourite was firmly secured.

On a lovely sunny Saturday morning, we seated ourselves outside of the winery awaiting the dear wine maker to explain his crafts. We learned of the extent (or lack thereof) of the operations on the farm (one of the oldest of the region) and the potential to lose large amounts of precious grapes due to howling winds in the region. Then we moved on to the truly interesting part – the wine.

• Coronata (2007): 60% Sauv, 40% Semillon. Semillon barrel fermented & batonaged. Bacon, salted asparagus, smooth, roasted green pepper, bacon Aromat.

• Coronata (2008): 70% Sauv, 30% Semillon. Roasted peppers, soft & smooth with a sneaky acid at the back of the throat.

• Coronata (2009): Roast green vegetables, cheekier, waxy, pithy, lurking naartjie pip.

• Coronata Integration (2009): Blended & barrelled before bottling. Honeyed asparagus, pretty vegetables, a bunch of veggie flowers. (*)

• Coronata Integration (2010): Asparagus dipped in caramel, veggie cotton candy, zesty & pithy, sugared cauliflower.

• Coronata Integration (2011): Green Sparkles, boiled sugar, slightly burnt sugar syrup, licking lime pith.

• Coronata Integration (2012): Sniffing paper, licking the back board of a new exam pad, unripe quince, “tastes like private pool water – not public pool”.

From the table, we ventured into the rather tiny batcave-esque home of the latest vintage of the Coronata Integration which we tasted from the barrel.

• Coronata Integration (2013): 50/50 Sauv/Semillon. Quince, passion fruit, liquorice bay leaves, black Sparkles, blackcurrant.

Having tasted our way through the entire Coronata offering, we were prepared to venture off into the valley to sample offerings from neighbouring farms. The lovely winemaker, however, had other ideas and proceeded to generously offer us tastings of the remaining range of Nitida wines.

• Sauvignon Blanc (2012): Super limey Sparkles, sharp, acidy

• Riesling (2013): Peachy Lipice, sharp unripe peach pips.

• Semillon (2013): Lightly oily peaches & orange pith.

From here on, note lost priority in comparison to the consumption of wine and a very merry day was had by all.

A Brief Roam In Robertson

Arabella

After a long trip to the Robertson region and an enjoyable day in the sunshine, the road led us along to a horse-focused wine farm.

• Arabella Chenin (2013): Guava, lime, pineapple, granadilla.

• Arabella Sauvignon Blanc (2013): Chevin & green pepper, asparagus, tangy Cheddar.

• Arabella Chardonnay (2012): 6 month on French chips. Buttered blossoms, mouthwatering, light, cotton candy water.

• Arabella Viognier (2012): French chips, marinara mix, crab sticks, buttered jasmine, round (*)

• Arabella Pink Pancea (2013): Cabernet Rose. Mossy swimming pool, bottled cherries, strawberry & yellow pepper, sunny disposition. (*)

• Arabella Shiraz/Viognier (2011): Shiraz – 14 months in oak, 10% Viognier. Currant cake with balsamic, spiced steak with creamed sauce, soft but chewy. (*)

• Arabella In Unison (2011): 33% Shiraz, 33% Cabernet, 33% Merlot, 14 months in oak. Drunken violets, youngberry, smokey, smoked fruit.

Op Op And Away

Opstal

When one encounters an offering ranging from bubbles to dessert wines, one knows one is, well, to put it plainly “winning”. A lovely tasting filled with easy drinking, happy Summer day wines.

WHITE:

• Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (2013): Sic-dry with sugar, soda-stream Sauv. Sweet with slight sharpness, fresh sweetness, Appletizer, kid’s champagne, light fresh cheesiness, too drinkable! Melons, alcohol-less. (*)

• The Mill Iron (2013): 40% Muscat, 40% Viognier, 20% Colombar. Grape syrup, peach flavouring, light gentle sweetness with body at the end – fills out at the end, slight sprinkle of cheese (*)

• Carl Everson Chenin Blanc (2012): (10 months in French oak & lees) Single block, 5 ½ star Platter. Marmite, molasses, jammy mouthfeel, orange honeycomb, Mary Poppins medicine wine, jammy marmite, lurking coffee cocoa, buttered peach jam on crumpets, creamy.(***)

ROSE:

• The Blush (2013): 70% Shiraz/ 30% Viognier. Slightly cheesy, cucumber, light acid, baby mushrooms, summery happy days in the sunshine. (**)

RED:

• Cabernet Sauvignon (2011): Sweet strawberry jam on scones, creamy, buttery, very light powder tannins, bouncy jelly babies, lurking cashews. (*)

STICKIES:

• Hanepoot (2012): 27 – 28 year old vines, 99% juice + 1% 95% alcohol. Litchis, green grapes, soft creamy sweetness, crushed cream crackers, light & easy drinking, buttered syrup. (**)

• Barrel-fermented Chardonnay Dessert (2011): 14 months in barrel, made like Noble Late, fortified with 3 year old brandy. Malted honey balls, malted fudge, creamy crushed Tumbles, crunchy candy coated liquorice, Christmas pudding wine. (***)

Opstelle oor Opstal:

• Rose was made due to an oversupply of red a few years ago – it became difficult to sell the block of Shiraz. Co-harvested Shiraz on the same day. Spent 4 hours in press & made like a white wine
• According to the classification board, it’s not a blanc de noir, not rose due to the off red ferment – classified as a ‘natural’ wine.
• 1^st 6 months it shows the Shiraz flavour which then steps back to for the Viognier.
• Cape Blend – 1/3 of volume must be Pinotage
• Viognier – 14 year old vines
• 6p – value for money range
• Heritage range – premium – Chenin – maiden vintage!
• 1 of the highest rainfall regions
• Chenin – 33 year old vines – won Best Block in SA, made in old barrels with no inoculation, grandfather’s face features on label
• Hanepoot = haan se poo – rooster claw – looks like the leaf
• Haanekloot = rooster testicle (grapes)
• Louw family crest on label
• 7^th generation of the Louw family on the farm (since 1847)

Nog Minder Eenzaamheid Met Goeie Wyn

Eenzaamheid

I do recall having met with the lovely Eenzaamheid (I refer here to The Wine, not the state of being, which I have also visited but found rather distinctly un-lovely) on a prior occasion. I was not in the least disgruntled by another encounter.

WHITE:

·         Eenzaamheid Chenin Blanc (2012): 29 year old vines, 2^nd vintage produced, matured on lees, 11 months in 4^th fill barrels. Coconutty pineapple oranges, citrusy Pina Colada, full, pouring cream with a squeeze of lemon, like sucking on orange peel. (*)

RED:

·         Eenzaamheid Cuvee 1693 (NV): 49% Shiraz, 28% Pinotage,  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Mourvedre. Caramel strawberries with shortbread, marshmallow Yorkshire pudding, light whipped cream, smooth, puffs of cumin, waify.(*)

·         Eenzaamheid Pinotage Cinsault (2011): Raspberry mousse with cloves, liqueured cherries, light pinch of pepper, very soft but slightly sharp, tangy, steak with creamy sauce.

·         Eenzaamheid Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault (2011): Rhone style, 81% Shiraz, 10% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. Chai hot chocolate with orange, sour cherry gummy sweets, sweet smoke, smooth & soft, lurking hot chocolate powder, chalky, ostrich steak with balsamic. (*)

Enlightenment from Eenzaamheid:

·         13 varietals in a Rhone style blend

·         Will be adding Grenache to the Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault in 2014 vintage

·         “A fabulous giraffe print wearing cow steak”

·         “Cinsault is the hipster varietal”

·         Cinsault nose is like “Jannie verjaar koeldrank”

·         Cinsault used for dry ferment is turned into brandy

·         Only vinify 1% of the grapes grown. The rest are supplied to Perdeberg

·         Only 9% of industry doesn’t irrigate vines

Glorious Glenelly

Glenelly Wine

A tasting dominated by Chardonnay, need I say more?

 WHITE:

• Glenelly Unwooded Chardonnay (2012):  Lees from wooded Chardonnay dropped through tank for fullness. Soft  fudgey pineapple, orange pith, pithy Super C’s, milky coated Super C.(*)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2010): 1^st vintage produced, 100% new oak + a splash of unwooded, no batonage. Buttered orange crumble, butterscotch citrus cream, honey cake with orange. (**)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2011): 70% new oak, 30% 2^nd fill, 60% malo. Zesty shortbread, lemon cheesecake with a strong Digestive biscuit cookie base, savoury. (*/)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2012): 40% new oak, 100% malo. Pineapple jelly with orange, light, fresh, lemony, easy peasy jumping castle wine, Weetbix, smooth. (*)

RED:

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2009):  Shiraz/Cab/Merlot/Petit Verdot. Gingerbread, wet dog, peppering of tannins, sterile.

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2007): 44% Shiraz, 31% Cab, 24% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Violet jam, crystallized strawberry, chocolate coated cherry, full & round with tea tannins, very dark chocolate fruitiness, licking the rough side of leather, fennel.

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2008): 40% Shiraz, 39% Cab, 14% Petit Verdot. Wet biltong, overpoweringly salty biltong, stamped chalk tannins, tinned peas, fresh green pepper, nutmeg, Marmite essence.

Notes:

• Virus free soils – new to vines therefore no standing vine-related diseases
• Matched soil to cultivars
• East facing – morning sun vs afternoon = natural freshness
• Low conversion rate of yeast is optimal
• 9 Iron commonly used for batonage
• Avoid malo to preserve freshness
• Can smell malo in the cellar – smells of yoghurt

Only One(ric)

Oneric Wines

Some tastings have a special kind of sparkle – this one started off with sparkly labels and proceeded to reveal some sparkling wines & a few sparks of mischievous information.

WHITE:

• Sauvignon Blanc (2010): 4500 bottles produced. Dusty camembert, light whiff of mown grass, white peaches and grapes, white grape juice, creaminess, litchi, soft. (*)

• Chardonnay (2010): 14 months in French oak. Pretty jasmine, creamy buttery honey, runny honey & peach pips. (***)

RED:

• Cabernet Sauvignon (2009): Green peppercorns & blueberry love child, light white wine vinegar, sharp with slight acidity, pair with lamb.

• Cousin Jack (2010): 18^th & 19^th Century character. Cab Sauv/Merlot/Shiraz. Gummy bears, juicy red berries, berry fruit tart, powdery tannins, puff of pepper.

• Flagship Shiraz (2009): French oak. Spicy berry coulis, cocoa-y, vinegary beetroot, retarded puppy tannins, lurking balsamic. (*)

Oneric’s Own Wisdom:

• 2009 was a good vintage the world over (except for California)
• Best wine for weed – Chenin/off-dry Riesling
• Father of Oneric family was a copper miner = metallic labels
• Oneric – “what dreams are made of”
• Launched in 2012
• Produced a total of 15 000 bottles
• Sell grapes to Neil Ellis