The Wonder of Waterkloof

As a fledgling wineling, there are a number of farms that One hears wonderful things of. Farms that just must be visited. Waterkloof ranks amongst those.


WHITE:

• Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc (2014): Cream crackers & green gummy sweets, smooth & soft, light, pith
• Waterkloof Chenin Blanc (2012):  10 months on new French oak. Green jam, rye honey, soft, caramelized honeycomb, white peaches, tinkling sweetness.
• Waterkloof Viognier (2012): 2 months in barrel. Rye, jasmine, brown bread toast, soft & light mousse, lurking lanolin
• Circle of Life White (2012): Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Semillon. Slight curry spice, marzipan, light, slight lime-iness.

RED:

• Waterkloof Cinsault (2013): Red & black Wine Gums, Mary Poppins strawberry medicine, powder puffs, creamy, slight tannin, deep spice.
• Waterkloof Cabernet Franc (2012): 20 months in new French oak. Raspberry jam & crème brulee sugar, wispy richness.

Miss Marianne

One of my favourite activities is venturing into the Land of the Wine for rambling excursions on the weekend. One of these rambles led to the Tasting of Marianne.

WHITE:

• Marianne Rose (2012): Merlot, Cinsault, Chenin, Sauv Blanc. Strawberries, candied cherries, sugary white cheese.
• Marianne Sauvignon Blanc (2012): Barrel fermented. Savoury grapefruit, pretty floral litchis, baked sugared oranges, salted ripe peaches. (**)
• Marianne Sauvignon Blanc (2013): Yellow & green sparkles, salted litchis, salted peaches, peach pith.

RED:

• Marianne Cape Blend (2008): Spiced black Jelly Babies. soft powder, eucalyptus, green tea.
• Marianne Cape Blend (2009): Chocolate oranges, creamy, cocoa sifted over whipped cream.
• Marianne Pinotage (2009): Wet biltong, metallic, balsamic, tinny tomato, carrot stock.
• Marianne Floreal (2009): Marmite on buttered scones, fruity dark chocolate, smokey red, full mouth feel with very light spice. (*)
• Marianne Shiraz (2009): Peppered caramel, all spice, butterscotch, smoked meat, dry chalk, rich buttercream.

Novice's Notes:

• Farm is French owned
• First vintage - 2004
• "I wasn't that into her even when I was..into her"
• Francois Haasbroek, previously of Waterford, has taken over as winemaker
• Owner owns 3 wine farms in France
• Wine is made in the French-style
• Named after the French lady of liberty

Swartland Series: Part 2 - Swartland Stories

Craig Hawkins – Testalonga El Bandito & Lammershoek

David Sadie – David & Paardebosch

For our next foray into the world of wine, we moved to the opposite end of the spectrum – wines local to the area made by two of the youngest wine makers in the region. Here, we diverged paths again with the very different approaches of each of these young lads.

• Testalonga El Bandito Skin Contact Chenin Blanc (2014):  42 year old vines, 4 weeks of skin contact. Lime & passion fruit cordial, pineapple beer, fermenting apple juice, charcoal.

• Lammershoek Chenin Blanc (2013): Grass & blossoms, pith, softer, unripe naartjies.

• Testalonga El Bandito King of Grapes (2014): 100% whole bunch Grenache, 2000l wood tanks, 8 days of skin contact. Tart berry jelly, red Wine Gums soaked in alcohol, drunken grandma, slight fine black pepper, powder tannin, lean.

• Lammershoek Celler Foot Mourvedre (2013): Cherry cocktails, white spice, tea bag tannins, strong rooibos, slight bitterness.

• David Aristargos (2013): Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Claret Blanc, Roussanne. Orange blossom, jasmine, lemon soap, softly spiced flowers, Nasturtium spice. (**)

• Paardebosch Chenin Blanc (2014):  9 months in old French oak. Nutmeg & lemon, roundness, grapefruit, spice, warming, strong-willed, baked grapefruit.

• David Elpidias (2012): Shiraz, Carnigan, Grenache, Cinsault, 22 – 24 months age. Spiced gummy berries, tart, powdery, lurking blackness.

• David Grenache (2014): Barrel sample. Clouds of cinnamon, cherry meat, peppered silverside.

Bantering Boys:

• “We pick on acid”
• David is not related to Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines

Swartland Series: Part 1 - Quality First

Serge Hochar – Chateau Musar

Now, I have learned enough over some time to know that there are several countries with rather well-established cultures of wine. To my discredit, I shall honestly say I had never considered Lebanon to be amongst these countries. I shall also honestly say – damn, was I wrong.

Our revolutionary adventure began with a tasting with the legendary (to all but myself beforehand apparently)  75 year old, Serge Hochar who has been wine maker at Chateau Musar in Lebanon for the past 56  years. We began with Serge’s youngest releases, working back all the way to a wine of my very own vintage:

• Chateau Musar Red (2007):  Drunken nutmeg, musky cherry, sharp & fruity, cranberry juice, burnt baked cherries.

• Chateau Musar Red (2005): Porty blueberries, pure Chirstmas spices, pepper & cinnamon, gluwein warmth, cherry pips.

• Chateau Musar Red (2003):  Musty strawberries, soft, youngberries, port strawberries. (*)

• Chateau Musar Red (2000): Soft strawberry powder, cherry sherbet, paprika pumpkin, meaty lentils in cumin & balsamic, sprightlier than 2003.

• Chateau Musar Red (1999):  Spiced chocolate mousse with sharp berry coulis, slight creaminess turning to tangy berries, softer & prettier, definition between softness & tanginess.

• Chateau Musar Red (1989):  Warm spice cake, baked seeds, raisins & nuts, balsamic mushroom soup, more tangy

• Chateau Musar White (2005): Butter, orange butter with a small spot of butterscotch, cake battery oats, cookie batter with whiffs of orange, almonds, wild honey (**)

• Chateau Musar White (1991): Peppermint butterscotch sucking sweets, orange rind, slight tannin, fresher.

Serge’s Soliliquy:

• “Wine was invented by God to link him & humanity”
• When asked about the terroir of Lebanon: “Lebanon is only mountains”
• “The most unpredictable things in life are weather, women & wine”
• “Wine is the best tool to enhance communication”
• “White wine is my best red”
• White vines are amongst the oldest in the world – up to 180 years.
• White wines were served unchilled to be better compared to the reds.
• Reds are best after 15 years +
• Best to taste Chateau Musar after the age of 30, younger people do not understand it
• Took 18 years to identify red blend – Cabernet Sauvignon (the backbone),  Carnigan (the muscles) & Cinsault (the skin) – 1/3 each
• White blend – Chardonnay & Viognier
• “As the wine ages, it becomes younger & bigger”
• Best vintage: 1964 White

Where The Water Flows

WATERKLOOF

There are times when one has the pleasure of meeting a wine that would pair with just about anything – this tasting in particular held a wine that would match “ribs, body parts & spaghetti Bolognese” – how very versatile!

WHITE:

• Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc (2013): 3 – 4 months to ferment (vs std of 1 -2 weeks), natural ferment partially in tank, partially in barrel, hand picked, whole bunch press. Lime & flint, lime zest, lime marmalade with a sprinkling of sugar, orange rind, sour Jelly Tots.

• Circle of Life (2011): Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin, Chardonany & Semillon, 50% barrel ferment, bottled for 1 year to integrate, 600l barrels. Honey & orange jam on crumpets, dried apricot, smokey grilled caramelized orange & apricot, Mr Bennett. (**)

ROSE:

• Circumstance “Cape Coral” Mourvedre (2013): Whole bunch press, 5 – 6 months on lees. Rose Sparkles, slightly salted watermelon, hint of Marmite, melted Marmite with butter

RED:

• Circumstance “Seriously Cool” Cinsault (2012): 45 year old bush vines, name refers to the serious palate & cool climate, 1^st vintage produced, wooden fermenters vs barrels, basket press. Cherry squashed in sand, cherry jam, cherry gummy bears, Velcro tannins, slight bitterness, pretty ginger biscuits.

• Peacock Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (2011): Wooden fermenter. Sweet cherry syrup jam with a spritz of nutmeg, cherry mince pies, shot silk velvet, could be cold.

• Circle of Life (2009): Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault. Tinned strawberries, velvety, baked strawberry jam with cream in mince pie pastry & nutmeg.

Notes:

• Farm is organic & biodynamic
• Use horses to plough vs tractors – each horse has 600kg of pulling power. The soil is not compressed by the weight of the tractors & the roots can grow deeper (5m vs 1m)
• Screw cap with whack = no oxygen
• Leave airspace in bottles for CO2 levels & expansion (heat)
• Peacock Ridge is a food-driven range
• Cinsault was most widely planted grape in SA until 2009 (now Chenin)
• Cinsault = Poor man’s Pinot Noir
• “Female winemakers produce more elegant wines”
• Rose is made from Mourvedre – bigger berries = less skin contact & tannins
• “Show the consumer in the bottle what you tasted in the vineyards”
• Cows are sacred in India because their hooves and horns keep energy in
• 500 Preparate = Nettle, camomile, dandelion tea, egg shells, manure, volcanic ash.

Nog Minder Eenzaamheid Met Goeie Wyn

Eenzaamheid

I do recall having met with the lovely Eenzaamheid (I refer here to The Wine, not the state of being, which I have also visited but found rather distinctly un-lovely) on a prior occasion. I was not in the least disgruntled by another encounter.

WHITE:

·         Eenzaamheid Chenin Blanc (2012): 29 year old vines, 2^nd vintage produced, matured on lees, 11 months in 4^th fill barrels. Coconutty pineapple oranges, citrusy Pina Colada, full, pouring cream with a squeeze of lemon, like sucking on orange peel. (*)

RED:

·         Eenzaamheid Cuvee 1693 (NV): 49% Shiraz, 28% Pinotage,  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Mourvedre. Caramel strawberries with shortbread, marshmallow Yorkshire pudding, light whipped cream, smooth, puffs of cumin, waify.(*)

·         Eenzaamheid Pinotage Cinsault (2011): Raspberry mousse with cloves, liqueured cherries, light pinch of pepper, very soft but slightly sharp, tangy, steak with creamy sauce.

·         Eenzaamheid Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault (2011): Rhone style, 81% Shiraz, 10% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. Chai hot chocolate with orange, sour cherry gummy sweets, sweet smoke, smooth & soft, lurking hot chocolate powder, chalky, ostrich steak with balsamic. (*)

Enlightenment from Eenzaamheid:

·         13 varietals in a Rhone style blend

·         Will be adding Grenache to the Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault in 2014 vintage

·         “A fabulous giraffe print wearing cow steak”

·         “Cinsault is the hipster varietal”

·         Cinsault nose is like “Jannie verjaar koeldrank”

·         Cinsault used for dry ferment is turned into brandy

·         Only vinify 1% of the grapes grown. The rest are supplied to Perdeberg

·         Only 9% of industry doesn’t irrigate vines

The Crown of the Land

            Landskroon

When a tasting of The Wine begins with a concentrated form of wine (read Port) being mixed with lemonade – one knows one is winning. It’s like bubbly mix-a-drink.

 

WHITE:

·         Landskroon Chenin Blanc (2013): 2 -3 months on lees. Brie on green apple, powdery green unripe pears, light nose, full mouth with a quick finish, like swallowing a fat fairy, fizzy sour worms, lurking cheese, Sauv-y.

RED:

·         Paul De Villiers Shiraz (2008): Bush vine, 100% American oak. Cinsault nose, chocolate cake batter, “smells like horse”, strawberry cotton candy, tea-like tannins, soft & whipped cream, savoury, lurking coffee, “Shiraz in a suit”. (*)

·         Paul De Villiers Reserve (2010):  43% Shiraz, 37% Merlot, 6% Cab, 14% Touriga Nacional, American Oak. Cherry coated steak, light & creamy, lightly grippy, hugs all the way down, titch of Bovril, homemade pasta, manor estate wine. (***)

·         Landskroon Port (2003): Tinta Baroca, Tinta Novella, Touriga Nacional, Cinsault, 1 year old brandy, older barrels. Black cherry candy floss, drunken Christmas cake,  grippy raisins clinging to my tongue, want to eat it with braaied meat, teddies by the fireside in my tummy. (**)

·         Landskroon Port (2010): Fresh pepper, cinnamon Chelsea bun essence, sweet but tannic, sugary tea, expansive, sugar syrup with a pinch of nutmeg & cayenne pepper, pinch of biltong powder.

Listening to Landskroon:

·         Estate was registered in 1974

·         Chenin & Chardonnay are trellised

·         Use older barrels for port – higher the alcohol, the more the wine extracts from the oak

·         Brandy is added to wine during ferment to stop fermentation & retain sweetness

·         Actively mix wine with brandy for 1 hour to stop fermentation