Thursday 13 November 2014

Swartland Series: Part 1 - Quality First

Serge Hochar – Chateau Musar







































Now, I have learned enough over some time to know that there are several countries with rather well-established cultures of wine. To my discredit, I shall honestly say I had never considered Lebanon to be amongst these countries. I shall also honestly say – damn, was I wrong.

Our revolutionary adventure began with a tasting with the legendary (to all but myself beforehand apparently)  75 year old, Serge Hochar who has been wine maker at Chateau Musar in Lebanon for the past 56  years. We began with Serge’s youngest releases, working back all the way to a wine of my very own vintage:

  • Chateau Musar Red (2007):  Drunken nutmeg, musky cherry, sharp & fruity, cranberry juice, burnt baked cherries.
  • Chateau Musar Red (2005): Porty blueberries, pure Chirstmas spices, pepper & cinnamon, gluwein warmth, cherry pips.
  • Chateau Musar Red (2003):  Musty strawberries, soft, youngberries, port strawberries. (*)
  • Chateau Musar Red (2000): Soft strawberry powder, cherry sherbet, paprika pumpkin, meaty lentils in cumin & balsamic, sprightlier than 2003.
  • Chateau Musar Red (1999):  Spiced chocolate mousse with sharp berry coulis, slight creaminess turning to tangy berries, softer & prettier, definition between softness & tanginess.
  • Chateau Musar Red (1989):  Warm spice cake, baked seeds, raisins & nuts, balsamic mushroom soup, more tangy
  • Chateau Musar White (2005): Butter, orange butter with a small spot of butterscotch, cake battery oats, cookie batter with whiffs of orange, almonds, wild honey (**)
  • Chateau Musar White (1991): Peppermint butterscotch sucking sweets, orange rind, slight tannin, fresher.
Serge’s Soliliquy:
  • “Wine was invented by God to link him & humanity”
  • When asked about the terroir of Lebanon: “Lebanon is only mountains”
  • “The most unpredictable things in life are weather, women & wine”
  • “Wine is the best tool to enhance communication”
  • “White wine is my best red”
  • White vines are amongst the oldest in the world – up to 180 years.
  • White wines were served unchilled to be better compared to the reds.
  • Reds are best after 15 years +
  • Best to taste Chateau Musar after the age of 30, younger people do not understand it
  • Took 18 years to identify red blend – Cabernet Sauvignon (the backbone),  Carnigan (the muscles) & Cinsault (the skin) – 1/3 each
  • White blend – Chardonnay & Viognier
  • “As the wine ages, it becomes younger & bigger”
  • Best vintage: 1964 White


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