Op Op And Away

Opstal

When one encounters an offering ranging from bubbles to dessert wines, one knows one is, well, to put it plainly “winning”. A lovely tasting filled with easy drinking, happy Summer day wines.

WHITE:

• Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (2013): Sic-dry with sugar, soda-stream Sauv. Sweet with slight sharpness, fresh sweetness, Appletizer, kid’s champagne, light fresh cheesiness, too drinkable! Melons, alcohol-less. (*)

• The Mill Iron (2013): 40% Muscat, 40% Viognier, 20% Colombar. Grape syrup, peach flavouring, light gentle sweetness with body at the end – fills out at the end, slight sprinkle of cheese (*)

• Carl Everson Chenin Blanc (2012): (10 months in French oak & lees) Single block, 5 ½ star Platter. Marmite, molasses, jammy mouthfeel, orange honeycomb, Mary Poppins medicine wine, jammy marmite, lurking coffee cocoa, buttered peach jam on crumpets, creamy.(***)

ROSE:

• The Blush (2013): 70% Shiraz/ 30% Viognier. Slightly cheesy, cucumber, light acid, baby mushrooms, summery happy days in the sunshine. (**)

RED:

• Cabernet Sauvignon (2011): Sweet strawberry jam on scones, creamy, buttery, very light powder tannins, bouncy jelly babies, lurking cashews. (*)

STICKIES:

• Hanepoot (2012): 27 – 28 year old vines, 99% juice + 1% 95% alcohol. Litchis, green grapes, soft creamy sweetness, crushed cream crackers, light & easy drinking, buttered syrup. (**)

• Barrel-fermented Chardonnay Dessert (2011): 14 months in barrel, made like Noble Late, fortified with 3 year old brandy. Malted honey balls, malted fudge, creamy crushed Tumbles, crunchy candy coated liquorice, Christmas pudding wine. (***)

Opstelle oor Opstal:

• Rose was made due to an oversupply of red a few years ago – it became difficult to sell the block of Shiraz. Co-harvested Shiraz on the same day. Spent 4 hours in press & made like a white wine
• According to the classification board, it’s not a blanc de noir, not rose due to the off red ferment – classified as a ‘natural’ wine.
• 1^st 6 months it shows the Shiraz flavour which then steps back to for the Viognier.
• Cape Blend – 1/3 of volume must be Pinotage
• Viognier – 14 year old vines
• 6p – value for money range
• Heritage range – premium – Chenin – maiden vintage!
• 1 of the highest rainfall regions
• Chenin – 33 year old vines – won Best Block in SA, made in old barrels with no inoculation, grandfather’s face features on label
• Hanepoot = haan se poo – rooster claw – looks like the leaf
• Haanekloot = rooster testicle (grapes)
• Louw family crest on label
• 7^th generation of the Louw family on the farm (since 1847)

Nog Minder Eenzaamheid Met Goeie Wyn

Eenzaamheid

I do recall having met with the lovely Eenzaamheid (I refer here to The Wine, not the state of being, which I have also visited but found rather distinctly un-lovely) on a prior occasion. I was not in the least disgruntled by another encounter.

WHITE:

·         Eenzaamheid Chenin Blanc (2012): 29 year old vines, 2^nd vintage produced, matured on lees, 11 months in 4^th fill barrels. Coconutty pineapple oranges, citrusy Pina Colada, full, pouring cream with a squeeze of lemon, like sucking on orange peel. (*)

RED:

·         Eenzaamheid Cuvee 1693 (NV): 49% Shiraz, 28% Pinotage,  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Mourvedre. Caramel strawberries with shortbread, marshmallow Yorkshire pudding, light whipped cream, smooth, puffs of cumin, waify.(*)

·         Eenzaamheid Pinotage Cinsault (2011): Raspberry mousse with cloves, liqueured cherries, light pinch of pepper, very soft but slightly sharp, tangy, steak with creamy sauce.

·         Eenzaamheid Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault (2011): Rhone style, 81% Shiraz, 10% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. Chai hot chocolate with orange, sour cherry gummy sweets, sweet smoke, smooth & soft, lurking hot chocolate powder, chalky, ostrich steak with balsamic. (*)

Enlightenment from Eenzaamheid:

·         13 varietals in a Rhone style blend

·         Will be adding Grenache to the Shiraz/Mourvedre/Cinsault in 2014 vintage

·         “A fabulous giraffe print wearing cow steak”

·         “Cinsault is the hipster varietal”

·         Cinsault nose is like “Jannie verjaar koeldrank”

·         Cinsault used for dry ferment is turned into brandy

·         Only vinify 1% of the grapes grown. The rest are supplied to Perdeberg

·         Only 9% of industry doesn’t irrigate vines

Glorious Glenelly

Glenelly Wine

A tasting dominated by Chardonnay, need I say more?

 WHITE:

• Glenelly Unwooded Chardonnay (2012):  Lees from wooded Chardonnay dropped through tank for fullness. Soft  fudgey pineapple, orange pith, pithy Super C’s, milky coated Super C.(*)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2010): 1^st vintage produced, 100% new oak + a splash of unwooded, no batonage. Buttered orange crumble, butterscotch citrus cream, honey cake with orange. (**)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2011): 70% new oak, 30% 2^nd fill, 60% malo. Zesty shortbread, lemon cheesecake with a strong Digestive biscuit cookie base, savoury. (*/)

• Grand Vin Chardonnay (2012): 40% new oak, 100% malo. Pineapple jelly with orange, light, fresh, lemony, easy peasy jumping castle wine, Weetbix, smooth. (*)

RED:

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2009):  Shiraz/Cab/Merlot/Petit Verdot. Gingerbread, wet dog, peppering of tannins, sterile.

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2007): 44% Shiraz, 31% Cab, 24% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Violet jam, crystallized strawberry, chocolate coated cherry, full & round with tea tannins, very dark chocolate fruitiness, licking the rough side of leather, fennel.

• Grand Vin de Glenelley (2008): 40% Shiraz, 39% Cab, 14% Petit Verdot. Wet biltong, overpoweringly salty biltong, stamped chalk tannins, tinned peas, fresh green pepper, nutmeg, Marmite essence.

Notes:

• Virus free soils – new to vines therefore no standing vine-related diseases
• Matched soil to cultivars
• East facing – morning sun vs afternoon = natural freshness
• Low conversion rate of yeast is optimal
• 9 Iron commonly used for batonage
• Avoid malo to preserve freshness
• Can smell malo in the cellar – smells of yoghurt

Only One(ric)

Oneric Wines

Some tastings have a special kind of sparkle – this one started off with sparkly labels and proceeded to reveal some sparkling wines & a few sparks of mischievous information.

WHITE:

• Sauvignon Blanc (2010): 4500 bottles produced. Dusty camembert, light whiff of mown grass, white peaches and grapes, white grape juice, creaminess, litchi, soft. (*)

• Chardonnay (2010): 14 months in French oak. Pretty jasmine, creamy buttery honey, runny honey & peach pips. (***)

RED:

• Cabernet Sauvignon (2009): Green peppercorns & blueberry love child, light white wine vinegar, sharp with slight acidity, pair with lamb.

• Cousin Jack (2010): 18^th & 19^th Century character. Cab Sauv/Merlot/Shiraz. Gummy bears, juicy red berries, berry fruit tart, powdery tannins, puff of pepper.

• Flagship Shiraz (2009): French oak. Spicy berry coulis, cocoa-y, vinegary beetroot, retarded puppy tannins, lurking balsamic. (*)

Oneric’s Own Wisdom:

• 2009 was a good vintage the world over (except for California)
• Best wine for weed – Chenin/off-dry Riesling
• Father of Oneric family was a copper miner = metallic labels
• Oneric – “what dreams are made of”
• Launched in 2012
• Produced a total of 15 000 bottles
• Sell grapes to Neil Ellis

Be A MAN

MAN VINTNERS

The promise of a tasting of my favourite Evil Fish Wines along with the Wine of the Three Initials is a tasting I would not miss for all the Sauvignon in the world.

WHITE:

• MAN Chardonnay (2011): Bush vine, 20 – 40% barrel ferment in new American oak, 6 – 7 months, batonage. Orange creams, crumbled shortbread, Eet-Sum-More’s, buttered orange pith (**)

• Tormentoso Chenin Blanc (2010): 1977 vines, American oak. Buttered almond biscuits, buttery onrange, rich & full but zesty, like lemon curd tennis biscuit cups covered with soft cream, like swimming in a cloud of creamy lemon curd. (***)

• Tormentoso Chenin Blanc (2012): Crisp buttered apple, litchi, pithy, stronger, light butter, runny fruit butter, buttered sharpness, want to age it! (I may even try!) (*)

RED:

• Tormentoso Mourvedre (2010):  15% new oak, 100% wooded, 15 months in American oak. Buttery chocolate brownies, spiced dense chocolate cake with a crushed tennis biscuit base, spices wrapped up in marshmallow. Serve with game meat such as kudu. (*)

• Tormentoso Mourvedre (2012): 7% new oak. Nutmeg cherry tart, Kirsch, Amaretto, sharper & fresher, lurking curry at the back of the throat, pencilly meat.

• Tormentoso Syrah/Mourvedre (2009): Syrah from Paarl, 85% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre. Creamed black wine gums, honeyed pencil lead, chocolatey smoked lead, VERY rich, cream on dense chocolate tart, smattering of spice. (*)

• Tormentoso Syrah/Mourvedre (2011): 87% Syrah, 13% Mourvedre. Jammy Christmas cake, Christmas tiramisu, slight waxiness, mouth coating, chalky tannins, chewy, drunk baked spiced berries, lentil soup-like heaviness.

Trivia on Tormentoso:

• MAN’s 3^rd label is blends only – only for export (Chenin/Viognier & Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier/Cinsault)
• “Mourvedre has a bit of grrr”
• Only Mourvedre vineyard in the region (trellised but unirrigated)
• 1 of 8 single vineyard Mourvedres produced
• Online store just launched
• 98% produced for export
• Source from 30 growers (mostly Paarl/Stellenbosch)
• Mase = cinnamon on crack, rectangular smell
• All wines are single vineyard
• Mourvedre is hard to colour due to its thin skin
• Mourvedre = motaro in Spain

A Hill of Stars

Star Hill

Sometimes  The Drinking of The Wine involved revealing some rather personal aspects of one’s, well, person. This is such a time. I, being one of partially ordered mind, am particularly impartial to impunctuality. Especially so on my own account. Most especially so when it results in the Missing of The Wine. This was such a day. Fortunately, there was The Good Wine to rescue the last of it.

WHITE

• Sauvignon Blanc (2012): Flagship wine. The wine which went, sadly (even though it was a Sauv Blanc) untasted.

• Chenin Blanc (2010): Barrel fermented, old French oak, 10 months, wild yeast. Buttered, toasted peaches; smoked rye, dried apricot marmalade, white peach tang. (*)

• Chenin Blanc (2011): 10 months in oak, commercial yeast. Honey peach jam on scones, malty butter, tinge of acetone, high heel kick, sour sucking sweets, peaky melon, salted grapefruit pith, mouth watering.

• Viognier (2011): 12 months in French oak, classic style. Orangey jasmine, mouth full of orange, like a bursting orange segment, smidge of savoury like roasted orange potatoes.

RED

• Shiraz (2010): 3% Viognier (late harvest), 4^th fill French oak, 24 months. Blueberry violets, purple flower honey, shy red gummy bears, a faceful of sour spices, light tannins, sour red Jelly Tots.

Something More About The Stars:

• People used to add Viognier to old bottles of red
• Built own Bordeaux red – bought in all grapes (Claret) – don’t grow any of the 5 varietals
• Vanilla essence is made from oak barrels
• Chenin yields 6 tons/ha – 4 year old vines
• All grapes are new growth
• Viognier is an old French grape dating back 3 – 400 years

A Very Impressive (Oak) Valley

Oak Valley

At the beginning of this particular tasting, I was rather impressed by the variation of wines on offer – mostly the decade old Sauvignon Blanc. By the end of the tasting, I had discovered a sanctuary in times of zombie apocalypse.

WHITE:

• Oak Valley Sauvignon Blanc (2003): Shortbread, lemon asparagus, cold litchis, butterscotch, soft green peppers, lemon buttered asparagus, soft whipped cream weight (*)

• Oak Valley Sauvignon Blanc (2012):  12 months on lees, 10% Semillon, 2^nd & 3^rd fill barrels. Green pepper Skittles, white Sparkles, strong soft white cheese rind, sweet acidy Camembert, lemon zest & pith butter.

• Oak Valley Chardonnay (2009): 30% new oak. Butterscotch shortbread, honey cake, Prince Charming, marry me wine, soft & charming but cheeky, lemon cheesecake, creamy orange marmalade. (***)

• Chardonnay (2012):  Yeasty rye, waxy oranges, turmeric rice with orange zest, very orangey cottage cheese icing. (*)

Oddities of the Oak (Valley):

• 4 men guard the Pinot Noir vineyard
• 5^th generation of family on the farm
• Highest vineyard in Elgin
• Coolest wine region in Elgin
• Cooler climate of the area leads to better bottle aging for Sauv Blanc
• Sell Sauv Blanc & Merlot grapes to Mulderbosch
• 1^st farm to plant fruit trees in Elgin
• 5 000 oak trees on farm
• Free range piggery – feed acorns to the pigs
• Livestock – Wagyu
• “Feed them grapes, they’ll be marinated from birth”
• Supply apples & pears to Tru Cape
• Biggest producer & wholesaler of flowers in Western Cape (supply Woolworths)
• “If there’s a zombie invasion, you’d be safe at Oak Valley”
• ’92 – Oldest Chard vines

Lovin' Lazanou

Lazanou

Being familiar with my penchant for particular white varietals, I was thoroughly thrilled to see my three favourite on the menu for tasting on this particular eve.

WHITE:

• Lazanou Estate Blend (2013): 320 cases produced. 65% Chenin, 28% Chardonnay, 7% Viognier. Unwooded, 8-9 months on lees. Sharp cheesy pineapple, soft lurking sweetness,  light tickle, creamy, creamed passion fruit, yellow Fizzers, passion fruit Creme Brulee. (*)

• Lazanou Chardonnay (2011): 9 months in oak, 1/3 new. Butter & syrup, orange & jasimine brittle, drinking runny honey, sweet & light, Kellogg’s Frosties milk, butterscotch clouds. (**)

• Lazanou Chenin Blanc (2013): Green sparkles, sprinkles of Brie, salted pineapple, masked acidity, liquorice tea sweetness, pithiness that becomes icing sugar sweet.

• Lazanou Viognier (2013): 94 cases produced. Candied apricot, creamy mousse, fairy dancing lightness, shy, pithy & waxy, very rich, like drinking a cup of cream.

RED:

• Lazanou Syrah (2011): Candied plums, treacle, petunia tart, syrupy cough mix, light & creamy with shy puffs of spice, meaty cardboardiness, smoked chorizo, sour dried cherries, smoked chocolate.

For the Love of Lazanou:

• Chardonnay 2013 is a ‘panty remover’ wine
• Chard undergoes batonage
• 2014 Chard to be wooded
• Wine has up to 1/3 less sulphur than normal
• Farm hosts open days – check their website for details
• Have a tasting stall at the Old Biscuit Mill
• Farm is 8,5ha with 5ha under vine
• Produce 30 – 40 000 bottles per year
• Chenin vines are 27 years old