Luxury White Wine - A Test of the Taste Buds

Being a fan of The White Wine as a general rule, the opportunity to participate in a white wine "taste off" at the highly esteemed Wine Cellar was very much right up my alley! Listed in order of tasting are the wines which were sipped upon tentatively, analysed, guessed about, compared and ranked. Alongside my scores out of 10 are my rankings out of 12, next to those are the official rankings for the tasting groups in both JHB & CT.

• Steenberg Magna Carta (2012): R 550, 60% Sauvignon Blanc & 40% Semillon. Asparagus, zesty, pineapple, green Wine Gums, lemon on asparagus, milky sourness, shary (4/10) (11/12) (11/12)
• Vergelegen GVB (2012): Grown, vinified, bottled. R 355, 56% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon. Savoury, salted cheese & bacon quiche, lurking baked green-ness, bacon butter, soft but tangy, less aggressive, could stand to age. (5/10) (10/12)(10/12)
• Hamilton Russel Chardonnay (2014): R 305. Tangy old dishwater, inside of a diving kit, rubbery,tangy, lime juice, weird sweetness under the acidity. (4/10) (12/12) (6/12)
• Crystallum Clay Shales (2013): All natural ferment, R 350, Chardonnay - sold out. Dusty mothballs, shy, soft baked pithiness with a touch of honey. (6/10) (7/12) (2/12)
• Sadie Family Palladius (2012): R 515, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Semillon Gris, Semillon Blanc and Palomino. Gummy greenness, lemon drops, velvet perfume, strong pith, peach pips in honey, baked vanilla pudding. (6.5/10) (8/12) (5/12)
• Ken Forrester FMC (2012): Forrester Maynard Chenin. R 395. Pond water, mud under willows, dustiness, unexpectedly punchy, pretty polite girl with a sharp tongue, honeysuckle sweetness with a slight spice. (7/10) (5/12) (1/12)
• Uva Mira Chardonnay (2012): R 630. Coconut, orange blossom granola, spot of cinnamon, lemon tart, linear, sharp freshness (*) (8/10) (6/12) (4/12)
• Fynbos Capensis (2013): Anthony Beck & Barbera Back, Jackson Family Wine, 100% oak on new vintage, Chardonnay, unreleased at time of tasting, R 950. Bacon Kips, bacon croissants, crispy pastry, smokey softness with underlying freshness, spot of pith. (7/10) (4/12) (9/12)
• Alheit Magnetic North Mountain Makstok (2013): R 450 - R 850, Chenin Blanc. Nutmes, cinnamon & honey oats, sago pudding, cosy & comforting, granny hugs (**) (9/10) (2/12) (12/12)
• Mullineux Quartz (2013): R435, Chenin Blanc. Shy, crisp asparagus & broccoli, sugared flowers, fresh but pithy, depth (**) (8/10) (9/12) (7/12)
• Jordan 9 Yards Chardonnay (2013): R 330. Straw & tinned peas, roundness, vaseliney roundness, baked peaches, creamy but fresh & rich. (**) (9/10) (1/12) (3/12)
• Longridge Ou Steen (2013): R 315, Chenin Blanc. Oily Riesling, Lismore-esque Viognier, sweet with underlying spice, masala. (8.5/10) (3/12) (8/12)

Cheese, Chocolate and Chardonnay

I have acquired a notebook. Not one of those new-fangled digital whatsits, but an actual notebook that fits perfectly into my satchel and thus goes wherever I do. This may not appear to be a relevant point at the outset – but it does become so when I explain that this now means I am more often in a position to be jotting down my thoughts about The Wine I happen to be enjoying.

My tiny book of The Wine thus began its life on an adventure beginning at Lourensford, where a tour of the largest cellar I ever have seen was preceded by a tasting of the Wine Maker’s Selection of wines and followed by a chocolate and wine pairing and further wine tasting (the farm produces 3 styles of each varietal – we attempted to try as many as possible).

Lourensford Winemaker’s Selection:

·         Lourensford Sauvignon Blanc (2011): 15% wooded. Green honey, melted butteriness, pithy, mouth coating, savoury orange with lurking acid. (*)

·         Lourensford White Blend: Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, 9 months in 2^nd fill oak, 6 – 8 years aging potential. Candied melon, green Sparkles, whiff of black pepper, sucking on a toasted green & yellow Sparkle, roundness, quince, fennel, sweet Caprese salad. (**)

·         Lourensford Merlot (2011): 24 months in 1^st fill, 15 – 18 years maturation. Berry chocolate brulee, smokiness, Gluwein spice, soft, spreads in your mouth, disappears on a whisp, chalky tannins on the back of the mouth, light flavour. “She knows where she’s going but she’s not quite there yet.”

Wine & Chocolate Pairing:

·         Lourensford Viognier (2011) & White stone fruit & jasmine: Hungarian oak. Litchi, creamy orange blossom oats. Chocolate brings out the peach pip. (***)

·         Lourensford Syrah (2011) & 80% Dark salted blackcurrant: 2% Viognier, 18 months in oak. Honeyed petunias & blackcurrant, violets, sharp, balsamic, thin tannins. Chocolate lifts the fruit, enhances the bitterness, tastes like speckled eggs.

·         Lourensford Noble Late Harvest (2012) & Milk melon: 100% Semillon. Quince & rhubarb, creamy sweetness, honeyed watermelon salad with green leaves & winter melon, cigarette box sweetness.

Lourensford:

·         Lourensford Brut Rosé (2010): 22 months on lees, 100% Pinotage. Rare meat, salmon, pea & bacon, pickled onion, dahl & strawberries.

·         Lourensford Chardonnay (2012): 6 months in oak. Prickly pear syrup, buttery honey, jasmine petunias in cream, orange blossom perfume, pistachio & litchi Turkish Delight. (*)

·         Lourensford SMV (2011): 2% Viognier, 5% Mourvedre, 20 months in oak, 9 months in 1^st fill, 9 months in 2^nd fill, 9 months 1^st fill. Peppered jasmine, full & rich, powdered tannins, sour cherries.

·         Lourensford Red Reserve (2009): 24 months in 1^st fill oak, 67% Cab, 33% Shiraz, produced once every 5 years, 1 500 bottles produced in 2009. Green peppercorns with soft berries, soft clouds, explosion of bacon salt, comforting nose with a punchy mouth, conversation wine.

·         Lourensford Honey Liqueur (NV): Pure honey, fynbos, drinking spoonfuls of honey, honey cake!

From Lourensford we adventured, with a particular destination in mind, but, upon sighting of signage for Longridge, the opportunity could not be missed.

• Longridge Chardonnay (2009): 11 months in French oak. Soft & slightly oily, shy & reserved, salted butter apricots, creamy soft zest, softened grapefruit.

• Longridge Chardonnay (2008): Buttered olive oil apricots, giant soft teddy hugs, sourish orange, soft & shy, cashew brittle, lurking spice, buttered ground almonds, orange biscuit, cumin & cinnamon, midget love child, drinking oats.

After our brief chardonnay & pizza respite, we moved along toward our intended destination – the next of the chocolate & wine pairings at Lanzerac.

• Lanzerac Chardonnay (2011): 40% first fill, 40% 2^nd fill, 20% third fill barrels, 6 – 8 months. Lemon crème, jasmine with creamy orange, full but light sharpness in cream. Paired with: White Chocolate Lemon Verbena

• Lanzerac Alma Mater Rose (2013): 80% Shiraz, 20% Malbec. Turkish delight, roses with spice, savoury Turkish Delight, soufflé mouth-feel.  Paired with: Rose Geranium in Milk Chocolate

• Lanzerac Merlot (2010): 12 months in French oak. Dark melted cherry Maraschino, maple syrup, cherry French toast, smooth with chalkiness, charred green pepper, spicy smoked plums. Paired with: 72% Cocoa Chocolate

• Lanzerac Pinotage (2011): First to bottle & sell Pinotage in SA, 16 months in 60% 2^nd fill, 40% 3^rd fill oak. Sour, subtle tannins, plums, youngberry juice. Paired with: Cherry covered with dark chocolate

• Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon (2011): 1^st, 2^nd & 3^rd fill oak, bottled for 7 months, 15 years aging potential. Creamy pepper, mushroom sauce, tannic, cheeky, well intended cheeky teenager (like Seth in The O.C), chocolate tones. Paired with: Cape Spicy Malay Milk Chocolate

After indulging in my fair fill of fine chocolate, a craving for something of a slightly more savoury nature set in. Which, when out in the wine world, to me, normally translates to cheese. Being within a fairly reasonable distance (as most things are fairly reasonable after 2 & a half generous wine tastings), the home of fine cheeses (Fairview) was selected as our next destination.  As the wine consumption increased, along with the desire to consumer copious amounts of cheese, my wilfulness to make notes decreased proportionately. My mind appeared to be focused on cheese by this time.

• Fairview Chenin Blanc (2013): Pineapple, litchi, cheese rind.

• Fairview Pinot Grigio (2013): Salty white cheese, tangy cheese spread on crackers.

• Fairview Chardonnay (2012): 8 months in oak. Creamy savoury peaches, light

• Goats Do Roam White (2012): Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc. Chevin, creamy but fresh, light.

• Fairview Viognier (2012): 100% first fill oak, first farm produce Viognier in SA. Honeyed Kiri cheese, substantial but light.

• Fairview Pinotage Viognier (2010): Warm, spicy nose, Kudu steak, gamey meat with subtle spice, light but drinkable, Pinot Noir-y.

• Fairview Mourvedre:  Spicy winegums, cheese sauce with spice (**)

• Goats Do Roam Red: Shiraz, Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault, Durif. Jasmine berries, silky with personality, elegant with British honesty. (*)

My will power to abstain from the array of delectable cheeses failed me at this point. We wadered over to the emporium of the cheese where we enjoyed sheep & goats milk feta, camembert, Chevin with prickly pear syrup, Gouda laced with cumin, yoghurt cheese & Blue Rock. After a successful tour d’ Cheese, we returned to the wines.

• Fairview The Goatfather (2012): Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo. Meaty cheese soufflé, cheesy pastry with venison. (**)

• Fairview Barbera (2011): Salted jam tarts, awkward spice, sharp, surprising but soft.

• Extrano Stranger (2010): Tempernillo, Grenache, Carnigan. Bleeding plums with ash salt, creamy tannins. (**)

• Fairview Durif: Petit Syrah, Shiraz, Paralauzen. Chocolate spiced Christmas cake, tannic hot chocolate, Mexican hot chocolate.

Filled to the brim with chocolate, cheese & wine, 'twas time to head for the hills of home.

A Tasting Menu of Wines - to Start

Herewith commences the first account of the first tasting of The Wine (& the first attempt at tasting notes)

* I rate things in stars - my rating system depends entirely on how much I like the wine at the time & is influenced strongly by my mood & the wines I'm tasting in relation. "/" means half :)

WHITE:

·         Eagles’ Nest Sauvignon Blanc 2010: Rounded & less acidic than normal sauv. (*)

·         Tormentoso Chenin Blanc 2012: Yum! American Oak. Coconutty, vanilla. Evil fish label (**)

·         Leeuwenkuil Reserve White 2011: Chenin + 4 others. Peachy, savoury, French oak; each variety fermented separately. Gooseberries & pith (/*)

·         Longridge Chardonnay 2008: Moss, pre-biodynamic, old fridge, worms. French oak. Grapes –> barrel –> bottle. Savoury butteriness, woody (/*)
*I have since come to love this wine - beginners' nose knows little!

ROSE:

·         Noble Hill Rose 2012: Mourvedre grape . Pretty. Tea-time dry wine. Less gay than normal rose. Smells like candyfloss – tastes like the stick. A la Waterfrod Rose Mary. (*) – Only available @ &Union

RED:

·         Collaboration Cinsault (cin-so) 2011: 2 chefs + a winemaker. Unwooded, meaty smell. Wow! Soft, serve chilled. ” Beautiful piece of fillet, rare with salad & balsamic vinegar” (**)

·         Tormentoso Mourvedre 2010: American oak, common in Shiraz blends, softer, smokey, horse-riding, metallic (try Beaumont’s Mourvedre) (*)

·         Pepin-Conde Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: Common wine-maker with wine above. “House wine”, smells fancy, beautiful French & American oak, tomatoes, cigar lounge wine, pencil case, huggable (*/*)

Notes for those not so in the Know:

·         Minerality = wet rock

·         Chill reds for 15 – 20 min before serving

·         Don’t serve whites too cold!